I visited the Rotary club of Cusco today, and I will be visiting the Rotary Inca club tomorrow. We exchanged banners, and over lunch they taught me some Quechua words. Machu Pichu actually means old Mountain, Machu is ``old`` and Pichu is ``Mountain``....There`s your first lesson in Quechua! It`s a really difficult language.
I am trying to post pictures from our visit to Taray, hopefully they will be up soon!
Katie
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Two nights in a Cuzco hospital
(Written 2-25-08)
I’m writing this post from my bed at the hospital with an IV hooked into my left hand (a first time experience for me!). They are keeping me here overnight, just to be safe, because after running some tests they found salmonella and a parasite at its beginning stages. I had the chills and a terrible fever the last couple of nights, but I slept all day yesterday and with the IV I feel much better… plus I haven’t watched TV for three weeks and they have cable in the hospital!
I am very fortunate because I have insurance that can afford this kind of care, and I know that I’m also receiving preferential treatment because my insurance is very good. When I arrived at the clinic, I was pushed ahead of other families to have my x-rays taken and my blood drawn. I have a large room upstairs with two beds, my own bathroom and a beautiful view, while downstairs the people are sleeping side by side. If you don’t have insurance, they don’t have to care for you and people have died waiting.
Outside my window the mountains are mostly occluded by the thick fog this morning...kind of fitting for the mood I started with =), but what’s more interesting to me is all the taxis lined up at the Pecsa gas station. Rows of taxis are waiting to be cleaned, checked and filled for business this morning. This city runs on taxis, buses and combis and very few families own cars. The other day I saw a family loading their dog in the back of a taxi, probably for a trip to the Veterinarian.
The Small Village of Taray
In Taray, and other smaller towns, they use mototaxis. It’s basically a motorcycle with a carriage attached to the back (see the photo). One trip from the town of Pisaq to the small village of Taray costs one sol per person, and the carriage holds up to three persons!
There is very little traffic between Pisaq and Taray, and when you consider 1 Snicker’s bar costs 3 soles, you realize they don’t make very much money. I’ve also learned that most US products are sold here at the same rate as they are in the states, so they aren’t very affordable…I felt a little guilty as I came to that realization while eating my Snicker’s bar, but I really miss chocolate from home!
Taray was a nice break from Cusco, because although I love the city, it was nice to breathe fresh air! I hiked 25 minutes into the mountain, and discovered a waterfall. Another 25 minute hike brought me to the top of a hill where I had a spectacular view of the Urubamba River winding its way through green, velvet, but rugged looking mountains and stretches of cornfields toward a snow capped mountain in the distance.
We also took two excursions during the week, one to visit the salt mines about an hour outside of Taray (and a good 40 minute hike!), and the other to visit the ruins at Pisaq. The ruins were incredible! They were once part of a large walled city high up in the mountains with huge terraces for farming. Below the city were fountains where the people had to bathe before entering and water still runs through them today. We explored the different rooms, now overgrown with vegetation, but the doorways, windows and cubby spaces, where they may have kept household items, idols or precious metals, are still intact. I climbed my way up the narrow staircases to the top, and breathed in the sight of the green valley and the amazing architecture they accomplished centuries ago.
It was about an hour and half walk back to Pisaq with more ruins of the city to explore and a path that led us through a small cave and by steep drop-offs to the bustling market below in the town’s main plaza. The market is a sea of blue and black tarps, under which you’ll find isles of artisans selling their hand woven crafts for ready-to-bargain prices, mostly to tourists, and all sorts of meats (most often the whole animal), fruits, vegetables, kitchen utensils, natural dyes and much more spread on tables or on the ground for regular shoppers. There are a couple of large markets in Cusco that I’d really like to visit before I leave, and it’s already my last week!
The worst part was when one of the teachers whose wife was expecting went into labor during the strike and there was no way for him to reach Cusco. He couldn’t sit and wait because the strike would not end until later that afternoon, so he began to walk. He walked the entire morning and afternoon, and we don’t know if he made it on time for the birth of his first child.
One more week in Cusco and then I’m off to Lima! Hopefully I’ll be able to post before then, but it’s been a crazy couple of weeks!
Katie
I’m writing this post from my bed at the hospital with an IV hooked into my left hand (a first time experience for me!). They are keeping me here overnight, just to be safe, because after running some tests they found salmonella and a parasite at its beginning stages. I had the chills and a terrible fever the last couple of nights, but I slept all day yesterday and with the IV I feel much better… plus I haven’t watched TV for three weeks and they have cable in the hospital!
I am very fortunate because I have insurance that can afford this kind of care, and I know that I’m also receiving preferential treatment because my insurance is very good. When I arrived at the clinic, I was pushed ahead of other families to have my x-rays taken and my blood drawn. I have a large room upstairs with two beds, my own bathroom and a beautiful view, while downstairs the people are sleeping side by side. If you don’t have insurance, they don’t have to care for you and people have died waiting.
Outside my window the mountains are mostly occluded by the thick fog this morning...kind of fitting for the mood I started with =), but what’s more interesting to me is all the taxis lined up at the Pecsa gas station. Rows of taxis are waiting to be cleaned, checked and filled for business this morning. This city runs on taxis, buses and combis and very few families own cars. The other day I saw a family loading their dog in the back of a taxi, probably for a trip to the Veterinarian.
The Small Village of Taray
In Taray, and other smaller towns, they use mototaxis. It’s basically a motorcycle with a carriage attached to the back (see the photo). One trip from the town of Pisaq to the small village of Taray costs one sol per person, and the carriage holds up to three persons!
There is very little traffic between Pisaq and Taray, and when you consider 1 Snicker’s bar costs 3 soles, you realize they don’t make very much money. I’ve also learned that most US products are sold here at the same rate as they are in the states, so they aren’t very affordable…I felt a little guilty as I came to that realization while eating my Snicker’s bar, but I really miss chocolate from home!
Taray was a nice break from Cusco, because although I love the city, it was nice to breathe fresh air! I hiked 25 minutes into the mountain, and discovered a waterfall. Another 25 minute hike brought me to the top of a hill where I had a spectacular view of the Urubamba River winding its way through green, velvet, but rugged looking mountains and stretches of cornfields toward a snow capped mountain in the distance.
We also took two excursions during the week, one to visit the salt mines about an hour outside of Taray (and a good 40 minute hike!), and the other to visit the ruins at Pisaq. The ruins were incredible! They were once part of a large walled city high up in the mountains with huge terraces for farming. Below the city were fountains where the people had to bathe before entering and water still runs through them today. We explored the different rooms, now overgrown with vegetation, but the doorways, windows and cubby spaces, where they may have kept household items, idols or precious metals, are still intact. I climbed my way up the narrow staircases to the top, and breathed in the sight of the green valley and the amazing architecture they accomplished centuries ago.
It was about an hour and half walk back to Pisaq with more ruins of the city to explore and a path that led us through a small cave and by steep drop-offs to the bustling market below in the town’s main plaza. The market is a sea of blue and black tarps, under which you’ll find isles of artisans selling their hand woven crafts for ready-to-bargain prices, mostly to tourists, and all sorts of meats (most often the whole animal), fruits, vegetables, kitchen utensils, natural dyes and much more spread on tables or on the ground for regular shoppers. There are a couple of large markets in Cusco that I’d really like to visit before I leave, and it’s already my last week!
Crazy Roads And a baby on the way!
While we were in Taray there was another strike in Cuzco, and it was much stronger. It lasted for two days. All transportation stopped and most every store was closed in the nearby towns, including Pisaq and Taray. The roads and highways were completely blocked off with large boulders or tree stumps. As we were making our way back to Cusco through the maze of debris, we even came across an enormous wall of cement propped up in the middle of the road. In town there were still remnants of the strike; a large banner strung across the church in the plaza read, “Defending our Heritage.” During the two days of strike the airport was closed and all flights to and from Cusco were cancelled, because the people tried to storm the airport. The strike was stronger and in more areas outside Cusco, because farmers had joined to protest the falling prices for their products.The worst part was when one of the teachers whose wife was expecting went into labor during the strike and there was no way for him to reach Cusco. He couldn’t sit and wait because the strike would not end until later that afternoon, so he began to walk. He walked the entire morning and afternoon, and we don’t know if he made it on time for the birth of his first child.
One more week in Cusco and then I’m off to Lima! Hopefully I’ll be able to post before then, but it’s been a crazy couple of weeks!
Katie
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Birthday in Cuzco
On Tuesday evening we celebrated the Birthday of one of my friends from the school, Gillian, with her host family. We had homemade pizza and cake, and the family cleared a dance floor for dancing. The host dad taught us the salsa, the merengue and more! It was so much fun to spend the evening with the family. Afterward, we sang Happy Birthday in both Spanish and English, and as Gillian went to blow the candles out the host dad shoved the cake in her face! (You can see the pictures under the album ¨The People and life in Cuzco.¨)
My host family is just as great. Yesterday evening my roomate and I arrived late for dinner and my host mom had already left, but she set our dinner on the table with our names on the plates and a little note saying she was sorry that she could not be there. She really makes us feel so much at home. I also had a lot of fun last week when she and I watched and sang along to some classic, romantic music videos in Spanish and English (i.e. In Sync, Vanessa Williams, etc. :) )
We are very fortunate because we live in a really nice part of town, but walking this morning from my home to the Plaza de Armas I could see that there is still a lot of poverty in Cuzco. I´ve talked a lot with my host family and teachers about life here, trying to learn as much as I can, and in the next couple of weeks I´ll be able to see how Rotary is involved in the community. I´ve been invited to a district event next Saturday in celebration of the Anniversary of Rotary. I`ve also been invited to attend their director`s meeting on the following Monday and to speak at their meeting on Wednesday.
Wish me luck!
I leave for Tarray tomorrow and will be there for the week. It`s a very small village just two hours outside of Cuzco, and is in the heart of the Sacred Valley, a beautiful area with more ruin sites to explore.
I`ll bring back photos!
Katie
My host family is just as great. Yesterday evening my roomate and I arrived late for dinner and my host mom had already left, but she set our dinner on the table with our names on the plates and a little note saying she was sorry that she could not be there. She really makes us feel so much at home. I also had a lot of fun last week when she and I watched and sang along to some classic, romantic music videos in Spanish and English (i.e. In Sync, Vanessa Williams, etc. :) )
We are very fortunate because we live in a really nice part of town, but walking this morning from my home to the Plaza de Armas I could see that there is still a lot of poverty in Cuzco. I´ve talked a lot with my host family and teachers about life here, trying to learn as much as I can, and in the next couple of weeks I´ll be able to see how Rotary is involved in the community. I´ve been invited to a district event next Saturday in celebration of the Anniversary of Rotary. I`ve also been invited to attend their director`s meeting on the following Monday and to speak at their meeting on Wednesday.
Wish me luck!
I leave for Tarray tomorrow and will be there for the week. It`s a very small village just two hours outside of Cuzco, and is in the heart of the Sacred Valley, a beautiful area with more ruin sites to explore.
I`ll bring back photos!
Katie
Friday, February 15, 2008
Trip to Puno
At 9:30 pm a group of about 16 of us left on the overnight bus to Puno. The bus station was chaotic, with so many families trying to reach Puno, whether it was for the weekend’s festival there, or to catch a connecting bus to destinations such as Arequipa, or La Paz, Bolivia. I was almost left behind because the agency that arranged our trip had forgotten to give me my tickets, but all worked out!
The trip was incredible. We arrived in Puno at around 5am in the morning and checked into our hostel to drop off our stuff then have a quick breakfast. We left that morning at 6:45 to board a boat visiting the islands of Uros and Taquile on Lake Titicaca.
Lake Titicaca is one of the world’s seven natural wonders of the world. It is the highest navegable lake in the world. Cusco is almost 11,000 ft above sea level, and Puno and Lake Titicaca are over 3,000ft higher, so don’t forget to bring your oxygen tanks if you plan to visit, and wear plenty of sunscreen!
I have always wanted to visit the island of Uros. Uros is a collection of small, floating islands made by the people from the reeds growing in the lake. They are an Aymara speaking people who have managed to maintain their customs and traditional way of life, but have also introduced some modern technology with electricity, phones, and satellites.
The men on the island do all the reed work, in crafts, building boats, laying more reeds, or building new islands. The women cook and sew. Their blankets either document daily life on Uros or are a collection of Incan symbols.
I was looking at some of their artwork when I turned around and saw a huge, vulture-like bird sitting on a bench feasting on a dead animal. It was a condor! The people of Uros have domesticated the animals, but they are still large, powerful creatures. At one point it attacked one of the girls in our group, but the guide was able to calm it down.
Lake Titicaca is beautiful! It is so large and majestic. It took us 2.5-3 hours to arrive at the little island of Taquile on the Peruvian side. I felt like I was on the ocean! You could not see the shore on the horizon and the water was a deep blue.
Taquile
2000 people live on the calm and peaceful island, and like Uros, the people have kept their traditional way of life. It was a difficult 20-30 minute hike uphill to the center of town, but with breathtaking views of the lake and the quiet island. One of the tourists from another group said he felt like he was in the shire, as we walked by green pastures, small farms and herds of sheep, and quaint, stone homes. Stone archways, marked the main path to let us know we were headed in the right direction.
You can spot a single man on the island because his hat only has red and white stripes, while married men have more colorful hats, and officials will where a bunt cap on top.
Young girls wear black covers with red tassels on the ends, while women wear more colorful caps, but as they grow older they begin to wear less color.
Festival
When we returned to Puno, the festivities had begun. It was all one huge party, as a parade of men and women danced and a band of trumpets, trombones, pipes and drums followed them circling the center of town. They started early in the evening and played until 1am, dancing the same steps and playing the same energetic melody. Huge foam wars broke out and you couldn’t make it across town without being soaked from head to toe in white foam. My friends and I were so covered in white foam that people in the crowd were pointing, we waved back and everyone laughed.
A friend of mine from the school decided to join in the wars and we ran into a fun, sweet family of girls who had the same goal in mind. We then went up and down the streets, and if any guy attacked us, we all went after him. In those few days of festival grandparents and parents became kids again, and it was all one enormous game. I had a blast! At one point, I even danced with the family in the parade!
The next morning we woke up at the crack of dawn to snag good seats in the stadium, because a large crowd was already lining up outside before the dance competitions had begun. All of the same dancers that danced the night away were now dressed in full regalia, with elaborate costumes and masks for the occasion. The competition went all day, but we watched only five hours in the stadium, and left to find the dancing still continuing outside, in another parade around the center of town. The celebration was everywhere! We returned to the hostel and found it playing on the television, and heard it in the radio as we traveled thirty minutes outside of town to visit the ruins at Sullistani.
The drive to the ruins was incredible. The landscape and people changed so dramatically just outside of town. Green, open pastures and rolling hills where herds of sheep, llama, alpaca and vicuña were tended by people wearing a more traditional style, and living in quaint homes built from the surrounding rock. It was that day that I saw my first llama and alpaca!
I am beginning to experience how varied the culture and land are in Peru; in just a short drive you can reach the countryside, or by boat you can visit the tranquil islands of Taquile and Uros, where you will find people living traditional lifestyles and speaking languages hundreds of years old. Even in Cusco, you can experience the diversity as you walk down the narrow, ancient streets and hear Spanish and Quechua conversations transpire, or you step inside a modern bank and discover that the walls are Incan.
It´s been a little difficult to post, but tomorrow I will be uploading a lot of photos, so you can have a chance to see the people and landscape. After tomorrow, I will be out of reach for about a week, because I will be taking my Spanish classes in a small village just outside of Cusco where there isn´t even a local store to buy water!
I´ll see you tomorrow!
Katie
At 9:30 pm a group of about 16 of us left on the overnight bus to Puno. The bus station was chaotic, with so many families trying to reach Puno, whether it was for the weekend’s festival there, or to catch a connecting bus to destinations such as Arequipa, or La Paz, Bolivia. I was almost left behind because the agency that arranged our trip had forgotten to give me my tickets, but all worked out!
The trip was incredible. We arrived in Puno at around 5am in the morning and checked into our hostel to drop off our stuff then have a quick breakfast. We left that morning at 6:45 to board a boat visiting the islands of Uros and Taquile on Lake Titicaca.
Lake Titicaca is one of the world’s seven natural wonders of the world. It is the highest navegable lake in the world. Cusco is almost 11,000 ft above sea level, and Puno and Lake Titicaca are over 3,000ft higher, so don’t forget to bring your oxygen tanks if you plan to visit, and wear plenty of sunscreen!
I have always wanted to visit the island of Uros. Uros is a collection of small, floating islands made by the people from the reeds growing in the lake. They are an Aymara speaking people who have managed to maintain their customs and traditional way of life, but have also introduced some modern technology with electricity, phones, and satellites.
The men on the island do all the reed work, in crafts, building boats, laying more reeds, or building new islands. The women cook and sew. Their blankets either document daily life on Uros or are a collection of Incan symbols.
I was looking at some of their artwork when I turned around and saw a huge, vulture-like bird sitting on a bench feasting on a dead animal. It was a condor! The people of Uros have domesticated the animals, but they are still large, powerful creatures. At one point it attacked one of the girls in our group, but the guide was able to calm it down.
Lake Titicaca is beautiful! It is so large and majestic. It took us 2.5-3 hours to arrive at the little island of Taquile on the Peruvian side. I felt like I was on the ocean! You could not see the shore on the horizon and the water was a deep blue.
Taquile
2000 people live on the calm and peaceful island, and like Uros, the people have kept their traditional way of life. It was a difficult 20-30 minute hike uphill to the center of town, but with breathtaking views of the lake and the quiet island. One of the tourists from another group said he felt like he was in the shire, as we walked by green pastures, small farms and herds of sheep, and quaint, stone homes. Stone archways, marked the main path to let us know we were headed in the right direction.
You can spot a single man on the island because his hat only has red and white stripes, while married men have more colorful hats, and officials will where a bunt cap on top.
Young girls wear black covers with red tassels on the ends, while women wear more colorful caps, but as they grow older they begin to wear less color.
Festival
When we returned to Puno, the festivities had begun. It was all one huge party, as a parade of men and women danced and a band of trumpets, trombones, pipes and drums followed them circling the center of town. They started early in the evening and played until 1am, dancing the same steps and playing the same energetic melody. Huge foam wars broke out and you couldn’t make it across town without being soaked from head to toe in white foam. My friends and I were so covered in white foam that people in the crowd were pointing, we waved back and everyone laughed.
A friend of mine from the school decided to join in the wars and we ran into a fun, sweet family of girls who had the same goal in mind. We then went up and down the streets, and if any guy attacked us, we all went after him. In those few days of festival grandparents and parents became kids again, and it was all one enormous game. I had a blast! At one point, I even danced with the family in the parade!
The next morning we woke up at the crack of dawn to snag good seats in the stadium, because a large crowd was already lining up outside before the dance competitions had begun. All of the same dancers that danced the night away were now dressed in full regalia, with elaborate costumes and masks for the occasion. The competition went all day, but we watched only five hours in the stadium, and left to find the dancing still continuing outside, in another parade around the center of town. The celebration was everywhere! We returned to the hostel and found it playing on the television, and heard it in the radio as we traveled thirty minutes outside of town to visit the ruins at Sullistani.
The drive to the ruins was incredible. The landscape and people changed so dramatically just outside of town. Green, open pastures and rolling hills where herds of sheep, llama, alpaca and vicuña were tended by people wearing a more traditional style, and living in quaint homes built from the surrounding rock. It was that day that I saw my first llama and alpaca!
I am beginning to experience how varied the culture and land are in Peru; in just a short drive you can reach the countryside, or by boat you can visit the tranquil islands of Taquile and Uros, where you will find people living traditional lifestyles and speaking languages hundreds of years old. Even in Cusco, you can experience the diversity as you walk down the narrow, ancient streets and hear Spanish and Quechua conversations transpire, or you step inside a modern bank and discover that the walls are Incan.
It´s been a little difficult to post, but tomorrow I will be uploading a lot of photos, so you can have a chance to see the people and landscape. After tomorrow, I will be out of reach for about a week, because I will be taking my Spanish classes in a small village just outside of Cusco where there isn´t even a local store to buy water!
I´ll see you tomorrow!
Katie
Lunch time!
It’s freezing cold today, but I’ve just had a hot bowl of soup and cup of tea to warm me up. They eat their largest meals in the afternoon, and always have coffee or tea (tea made from coca leaves is most popular and is supposed to be the best remedy for altitude sickness). Meals in the afternoon are the largest, a soup is served first, and then a main course with meat, which is usually beef (most often chewy), chicken, or fish and rice or potatoes. There seem to be no tortillas in Peru! I was told the only time tortillas are ever served is in the Sierras, during a traditional ceremony or celebration. Instead, bread is at every meal which I absolutely love, but the bread is really hard.
Breakfast is usually just bread with butter or jam, and dinner is usually another bowl of soup.
If you were to sit down at a restaurant and wanted to try a typical Peruvian dish, you would see Alpaca on the menu. The meat is supposed to be very healthy, with little fat and no cholesterol, but I’m told very few Peruvians actually eat Alpaca! It’s seen as more of a beast of burden, rather than food. A really typical Peruvian dish is the Kuy, or roasted guinea pig, and when it is eaten the whole guinea pig, head and all, is brought to the table….something I haven’t experienced yet, but I did eat fish served with the tail still on it. Kuy is such a typical food that it was painted as part of the Last Supper in a piece done during colonial times which hangs in Cusco’s Cathedral. Another typical dish would be Anticucho, which is supposed to be really tender, juicy meat served on a kabob. Sounds great, right? Until you find out the meat is from a cow’s heart! I’m not sure if I’m gusty enough to try it…I think I’d like to try their famous Chifa (Chinese food) instead, or eat at one of their many pizzerias.
They have a variety of fruits, but my favorite is the huge avocados (they´re a type from the ones in the states) you can buy at very cheap prices!
Breakfast is usually just bread with butter or jam, and dinner is usually another bowl of soup.
If you were to sit down at a restaurant and wanted to try a typical Peruvian dish, you would see Alpaca on the menu. The meat is supposed to be very healthy, with little fat and no cholesterol, but I’m told very few Peruvians actually eat Alpaca! It’s seen as more of a beast of burden, rather than food. A really typical Peruvian dish is the Kuy, or roasted guinea pig, and when it is eaten the whole guinea pig, head and all, is brought to the table….something I haven’t experienced yet, but I did eat fish served with the tail still on it. Kuy is such a typical food that it was painted as part of the Last Supper in a piece done during colonial times which hangs in Cusco’s Cathedral. Another typical dish would be Anticucho, which is supposed to be really tender, juicy meat served on a kabob. Sounds great, right? Until you find out the meat is from a cow’s heart! I’m not sure if I’m gusty enough to try it…I think I’d like to try their famous Chifa (Chinese food) instead, or eat at one of their many pizzerias.
They have a variety of fruits, but my favorite is the huge avocados (they´re a type from the ones in the states) you can buy at very cheap prices!
Friday, February 8, 2008
El Paro (The strike)
I left my house yesterday at 7:30 in the morning to start my long walk to school knowing there would be no transportation, and when I reached the main street that runs through Cusco, Avenida de la Cultura, I was still surprised by what I saw...the usually busy and loud street with taxis and combis rushing by and honking their horns was quiet. Instead, there was a calm, steady flow of people walking in the direction of the Plaza de Armas. It was remarkable to see so many people coolly walking towards their destinations, and it seemed it was their manifestation of solidarity in the strike.
(Really briefly - the strike was against a law recently written, that if passed, would allow for private investment in places such as Machu Pichu; something the people feel in Cusco would destroy the world heritage site, and they would not see any of the economic benefits.)
It was about an hour’s walk to school (all UPHILL). The demonstration had not started, but along the way there were tires burning in the streets, and large stones to block any vehicles from driving in the streets. No taxi dared to drive any later than eight in the morning or near the Plaza de Armas, because if they were seen, the people would throw rocks at them.
Hundreds of people circled the plaza de Armas carrying signs saying things such as “Cusco is not for sale.” It was a crazy sight to see so many persons from all parts of society walking side by side and circling the plaza. We could hear the noise and shouting from our classrooms. It seemed the whole of Cusco was out to make their voices heard; and they were, because all over the news that evening and this morning were reports about the strike. There was little or no violence and the strike died down about one, but if the congress continues to move ahead with passing the law there will be another strike next week.
A usual day in Cusco
To get to school in the morning, I usually go by ¨Combi, ¨ and it seems crazy to me now, but they tell me it’s a circus in Lima…so I am really glad to be getting the experience. The Combi is their main bus system, but it’s actually a van that will carry 20+ persons at times! It’s much cheaper than taking a taxi, but it can get pretty crowded with people standing bent over because there aren’t any seats. It’s also really hard to get off if you’re stuck in the corner!
At night I often take a taxi home with a friend from the school, and we’ve been taught which ones are the safe ones to take - there are a lot of drivers in the city that taxi persons but are not registered with the town council and can be very dangerous for tourists.
Home
The family that I am living with does not own the home I am staying in. It is a large house with several rooms, and simply furnished. The head of the household, Patricia, recently divorced from her husband. She is the caretaker of the home and earns extra money by renting the rooms to students or visitors like me. Her son and his fiancée stay in one of the rooms when he comes home for the weekends, and her ex-husband’s brother (Juan), who was recently divorced from his wife, also lives in the house. He was kicked out of his home and had no place to go, so Patricia offered him a place to stay. They are really good friends and are a riot when they are together!
I eat all of my meals with the family, and over breakfast, lunch and dinner I am learning a lot about Peruvian life. It’s nearing dinner now, so I need to get going, but the next time I’m on I’ll share with you some of their recipes, ones that will make your mouth water and others that might make your stomach turn. =)
Katie
I left my house yesterday at 7:30 in the morning to start my long walk to school knowing there would be no transportation, and when I reached the main street that runs through Cusco, Avenida de la Cultura, I was still surprised by what I saw...the usually busy and loud street with taxis and combis rushing by and honking their horns was quiet. Instead, there was a calm, steady flow of people walking in the direction of the Plaza de Armas. It was remarkable to see so many people coolly walking towards their destinations, and it seemed it was their manifestation of solidarity in the strike.
(Really briefly - the strike was against a law recently written, that if passed, would allow for private investment in places such as Machu Pichu; something the people feel in Cusco would destroy the world heritage site, and they would not see any of the economic benefits.)
It was about an hour’s walk to school (all UPHILL). The demonstration had not started, but along the way there were tires burning in the streets, and large stones to block any vehicles from driving in the streets. No taxi dared to drive any later than eight in the morning or near the Plaza de Armas, because if they were seen, the people would throw rocks at them.
Hundreds of people circled the plaza de Armas carrying signs saying things such as “Cusco is not for sale.” It was a crazy sight to see so many persons from all parts of society walking side by side and circling the plaza. We could hear the noise and shouting from our classrooms. It seemed the whole of Cusco was out to make their voices heard; and they were, because all over the news that evening and this morning were reports about the strike. There was little or no violence and the strike died down about one, but if the congress continues to move ahead with passing the law there will be another strike next week.
A usual day in Cusco
To get to school in the morning, I usually go by ¨Combi, ¨ and it seems crazy to me now, but they tell me it’s a circus in Lima…so I am really glad to be getting the experience. The Combi is their main bus system, but it’s actually a van that will carry 20+ persons at times! It’s much cheaper than taking a taxi, but it can get pretty crowded with people standing bent over because there aren’t any seats. It’s also really hard to get off if you’re stuck in the corner!
At night I often take a taxi home with a friend from the school, and we’ve been taught which ones are the safe ones to take - there are a lot of drivers in the city that taxi persons but are not registered with the town council and can be very dangerous for tourists.
Home
The family that I am living with does not own the home I am staying in. It is a large house with several rooms, and simply furnished. The head of the household, Patricia, recently divorced from her husband. She is the caretaker of the home and earns extra money by renting the rooms to students or visitors like me. Her son and his fiancée stay in one of the rooms when he comes home for the weekends, and her ex-husband’s brother (Juan), who was recently divorced from his wife, also lives in the house. He was kicked out of his home and had no place to go, so Patricia offered him a place to stay. They are really good friends and are a riot when they are together!
I eat all of my meals with the family, and over breakfast, lunch and dinner I am learning a lot about Peruvian life. It’s nearing dinner now, so I need to get going, but the next time I’m on I’ll share with you some of their recipes, ones that will make your mouth water and others that might make your stomach turn. =)
Katie
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Desde Cuzco
I am so thrilled to be writing this post from Cuzco, Peru. I arrived in Cuzco on Sunday, after a long day of traveling Saturday and a short morning flight to Cuzco.
Dia de Carnival
Cuzco is a beautiful city, rich with history and culture, that I am just beginning to explore. On Sunday evening, my first day at the language school, all of the new students were supposed to be given a quick tour of the city, but we were unable to go out into the streets because we knew that we would be a huge target. It was dia de carnival, and in Cuzco, they celebrate it by throwing water balloons or buckets of water at passer-bys. Traditionally boys chase after girls and vice versa, but the boys are the ones doing most of the throwing and there is no discrimination for tourists. The kids are also armed with shaving crème and huge water guns, and are merciless, but one boy gave me a water balloon to throw before he doused me with a bucket of water! I was soaked head to toe, freezing cold and my hair was greasy from the shaving crème. At night, they throw flour, but I knew I was an easy target so I spent the evening with my host family. It was a crazy, but definitely fun experience.
Visit to the Clinic
Today, I had the chance to visit a clinic for mentally handicapped children that have been abandoned by their parents. The clinic is supported by the Amauta language school, which I am attending. We gave a donation towards their emergency medical fund for the children, and then spent about an hour visiting and playing with the children. I sang songs with them that I learned in highschool Spanish class (Los pollitos dicen pio pio pio...thank you Mr. Norrid!), and I spent a lot of time playing with a girl who could not sit upright without help, or speak. When I laid her back in her bed (something very difficult to do, because she really enjoyed the attention) I saw that her name was Katy. I also visited and played with twin toddlers Ruth and Yusira, and I was so excited when they both grabbed my hand at the same time.
The Amauta Language School runs a volunteer program in addition to classes for students, and the clinic is just one of their 25 projects.
Cuzco, World Heritage site
It´s incredible to be living in a city with so much culture and history. Cuzco was named as one of the world´s heritage sites and people seem to be flocking from around the world to visit. I have made friends from Austria, England, Ireland, Switzerland, Holland and the states. But it´s an odd experience to see in this bustling city, where history and present collide, an Irish pub or an American sports bar & grill in the Plaza de Armas.
The booming tourism industry is sparking some conflict as they try to decide how to best manage Machu Pichu. Tomorrow, there will be a strike in the main Plaza de Armas, and there will be no transportation within Cuzco or to Machu Pichu. (It looks like I´ll be walking with some friends to school tomorrow! It´s a good 45-50 minute walk, but I need the exercise).
I think that´s all for now…if you have to read these long posts every time, I´m afraid you´ll never come back to visit! This weekend I´ll have the chance to see a huge celebration in Puno for Carnival. People come from all over to see the festival and there will be folkloric dances and firecrackers in the main streets of the city.
Until next time!
Katie
Dia de Carnival
Cuzco is a beautiful city, rich with history and culture, that I am just beginning to explore. On Sunday evening, my first day at the language school, all of the new students were supposed to be given a quick tour of the city, but we were unable to go out into the streets because we knew that we would be a huge target. It was dia de carnival, and in Cuzco, they celebrate it by throwing water balloons or buckets of water at passer-bys. Traditionally boys chase after girls and vice versa, but the boys are the ones doing most of the throwing and there is no discrimination for tourists. The kids are also armed with shaving crème and huge water guns, and are merciless, but one boy gave me a water balloon to throw before he doused me with a bucket of water! I was soaked head to toe, freezing cold and my hair was greasy from the shaving crème. At night, they throw flour, but I knew I was an easy target so I spent the evening with my host family. It was a crazy, but definitely fun experience.
Visit to the Clinic
Today, I had the chance to visit a clinic for mentally handicapped children that have been abandoned by their parents. The clinic is supported by the Amauta language school, which I am attending. We gave a donation towards their emergency medical fund for the children, and then spent about an hour visiting and playing with the children. I sang songs with them that I learned in highschool Spanish class (Los pollitos dicen pio pio pio...thank you Mr. Norrid!), and I spent a lot of time playing with a girl who could not sit upright without help, or speak. When I laid her back in her bed (something very difficult to do, because she really enjoyed the attention) I saw that her name was Katy. I also visited and played with twin toddlers Ruth and Yusira, and I was so excited when they both grabbed my hand at the same time.
The Amauta Language School runs a volunteer program in addition to classes for students, and the clinic is just one of their 25 projects.
Cuzco, World Heritage site
It´s incredible to be living in a city with so much culture and history. Cuzco was named as one of the world´s heritage sites and people seem to be flocking from around the world to visit. I have made friends from Austria, England, Ireland, Switzerland, Holland and the states. But it´s an odd experience to see in this bustling city, where history and present collide, an Irish pub or an American sports bar & grill in the Plaza de Armas.
The booming tourism industry is sparking some conflict as they try to decide how to best manage Machu Pichu. Tomorrow, there will be a strike in the main Plaza de Armas, and there will be no transportation within Cuzco or to Machu Pichu. (It looks like I´ll be walking with some friends to school tomorrow! It´s a good 45-50 minute walk, but I need the exercise).
I think that´s all for now…if you have to read these long posts every time, I´m afraid you´ll never come back to visit! This weekend I´ll have the chance to see a huge celebration in Puno for Carnival. People come from all over to see the festival and there will be folkloric dances and firecrackers in the main streets of the city.
Until next time!
Katie
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